A Samosa
by any other name
I love
samosas.. and if the accompaniment is chutney and chai.. the combination is
unbeatable. I have been eating samosas on and off for at least 40 years, but
only recently it struck me that though ubiquitous (and I did not quite know
just how ubiquitous) and seemingly simple to make, not everyone can get it
right.
The
filling has to be just right in ingredients
and quantity. Too much filling and you feel as if you are eating a potato
cutlet and if it is too little, you feel
you have been short-changed. The crust has to be made of maida (refined flour)
and fried just right. Now I have eaten samosas in Pune, and the Puneites while
good at Shrikhand , can never get the
samosa right. They use aatta for the crust.. and that makes it a very poor
samosa…or an almost-samosa. And for some reason I am not able to quite fathom, in
Pune it is called a Punjabi samosa. Luckily Punjabis are large hearted (and not
uptight like Maharashtrians) , and haven’t filed a PIL against the Marathis for
insulting them with this prefix “Punjabi” to the almost- samosa.
Further
south, In Bangalore, the various Darshinis and Sagars (restaurants that serve
South Indian food/ snacks ) also serve samosas. They don’t call it a Punjabi
samosa, but they also can’t get it right. The crust is (as in Pune) is done in
aatta and the ever present curry leaves are added to the potato masala. Well,
this is also an almost-samosa.
Yet there
are at least a couple of places I know that you can get the the genuine article in Bangalore. One is
Bhagatram on Comemrcial Street
and another is Lakshmi Sweets in Marathahalli. I am sure here are many more. I
think what makes the difference is the ethnic origin of the shop owner or cook. I have eaten samosas in Whitehall, London in a Pakistani eatery, and hey were quite good.
Now thats
what brings me to the second part. Where exactly did the word Samosa come from
? The word does not quite sound like Hindi / Sanskrit, nor is it
Punjabi or any South Indian Language. So I looked up my friend Google
Srinivasan. And here is what I was not-so surprised to find.
The word
(and therefore the eatable) originated probably in Iran where it is called sanbosag in Persian It is also seen in
other countries : Sambosa in Afghanistan, sanbusak/ sanbusaj in Arab countries,
samboosa in Tajikistan, samusa in Burma and sambusa in Horn of Africa (Somalia, Eritrea, Ethiopia, Djibouti).
It is only in India , that the samosa is for the most part a vegetarian snack. Elsewhere it is usually filled with mince lamb or beef.